Planting a Swamp

Float-on Bog

Much of the woods I have planted is damp ground, but quite a lot is on dangerous float-on bog, which has similar properties to quick-sand, if you tread on the wrong place. But the vegetation informs me 'where to tread and where not to tread'. Some bits are just not worth the risk and would probably not be able to support any trees. Float-on bog is water covered in a tangled layer of vegetation. There's allot of it dammed behind the river's natural levees, all along the valley, but these dangerous bogs are by no means confined to river valleys, but that's where they mostly are.

Planting in these places is a bit scary as the whole surface structure sags and quivers as I carefully step into and accross it. However one benefit is that I only need use the spade to cut hole. No digging is required; I can then stuff the little tree or plant into the wet peat with my foot.

Alders and Willows are really the only of the big(ish) trees to be able to grow on the float on, although many others will grow around the edges. Guelder Rose, Blackthorn and Hazel seem to do remarkably well too.

It is important to note, that all trees, even swamp trees are going to be stunted in the middle of a swamp. Most, esp. The bog trees (Willow & Alder) love being on the edge of a swamp, with their roots in both wet and dry ground. These grow more quickly than any other trees in this location.

Experimentation

Will it Survive or won't it?

Before starting a large scale introduction of a new species; I like to try a few out first, in a few safe places and then observe the progress over however much time I feel is necessary, when or if larger scale introductions will be necessary.

Some plants are obviously very tough; Willows, for example, needed no trial. Same with wild Blue Bells. Both grew here already, but in only a few places and not in any great numbers. So with both plantings began in the wild on year1.

Wild Daffodils needed trials to determine A) If they could survive up here on the moors. B) If they were able to propagate themselves up here. C) With Wild Daffofils being and endangered species; before large scale introductions began; I also conducted experiments to determine the impact of my various collection methods upon controlled small areas in the wild. Wild Daffodils now are my most widespread plant. Mostly around Dartmoor, but I think in a few years time, people might not regard it rare anymore.

Trees and plants in the early years, were all planted in small groups and in a variety of different habitats, basically to see what they would tolerate and what they preferred.

Experiments in the wild are often simultaneous with trials in the garden. Since I dwell slightly higher than most of what I plant, the garden is generally where I start. If they'll grow in the garden; they should survive in the valley below.

Experimentation is a very good and clear way of learning. It saves waist and can avoid learning harsh lessons.

Allot of these initial experiments are quite big now, dotted about, as the first wave of the returning forest, and very importantly; appearing as natural as I can possibly make it.

Experiments in my Garden

The Soil and Climate Test;

Where I can easily observe them; In the Garden!

Before introducing a new plant species, that so far has been absent from the high moor, but abundant (at least in places) on the foot hills, be able to Survive up here, on the high moor?

Successful introductions into the wild zones of the garden and since gone on to Begin their first trial plantings, in the wild, would include; Valerian (valeriania), Wild Iris, Wild Strawberries, Wild Daffs, Teazel as well as many others.

Many of the species trialed in my garden are now are building up colonies in the wild up here, and are now being (or have been) planted on a much bigger scale by me.

The amount a new species needs to be planted in the wild is often determined by it's ability to spread in it's new environment.

A Solution to the Alder Crisis

Many thanks to DAN

Throughout my 10 years of tree planting; one tree has always proved difficult to find in any great numbers. This being the Alder. I always found some, but seldom enough for all the boggy sites I have to plant up here. From years 1 - 9 I always had to ration the Alders.

Towards the end of tree planting season for year 9, I suffered the misfortune of having no transport for about a month.

I tried to do the best I could for tree planting, under the circumstances and had to take a smaller, more subtle amount on the bus.

It was on one such journey, that I met a bloke on the bus, who asked me about my bag of trees, so I told him all about my activities. He then asked me if I wanted any Alders, without me even mentioning about them. He said he knew of a valley, where thousands had seeded onto low lying swamps around the less grazed edge of the moors, towards Tavistock.

I felt sure, at this point, that they surely must be suckers from those awfully invasive North American Alders and tried not to get my hopes up too much. I arranged to meet up with him a few weeks later, so he could show me where they were.

To my amazement, when I went there; they were all English Alders, seeded on the moors in thick clumps all up one of the valleys, coming out from Tavistock. Easily enough to thin out extensively, without affecting the natural regeneration of native forest in that valley.

I only ever saw Dan a few times after that. I never told him the sheer quantity of Alders I got from that site or how much of an impact his discovery made to the cause.

So you you ever find this blog Dan. Thank you very much indeed. You're a Star!

Top picture, behind the willow are some of Dan's actual Alders. Dartmoor Prison in the background. The lower picture is and example of what they will look like after about 4 years of growth.

Tree Collecting in North Dartmoor

Selecting the right Trees

One good place to find baby deciduous trees is under a conifer plantation, shortly before it is felled. Here the conifers have already been thinned, allowing a mass of baby trees to grow.

Just in case the forestry company decides to turn the site back into a deciduous woodland, I have to be very careful not to decimate toe deciduous tree population, so I have to choose the trees I'm going to take very carefully & only take the smaller trees (but not leggy specimens, which are struggling) or if they are growing right by a foot path, where they will not be allowed to grow.

The trick is to cut a circle around the tree, with a spade and then gently lift the young tree out. In the picture, I am digging up a Birch tree, which has no real tap root, however with Oak or Hawthorn this method is very good as it dose not damage the taproot. Be careful, when digging up a tree with a tap root, not to dig under the tree as this will damage the taproot. The lateral roots don't mind being trimmed by the spade, but the taproot is the most important root. Once a circle is cut around the tree, the tap root should be able to be gently lifted out.

It dose make things more fun and allot quicker if you have some help, also it is good to keep a ball of soil around the root (root ball).

It is very important to cover up the roots with some damp plastic and best to transport and plant them in their new location as soon as possible.

Please note that, trees will not survive this procedure if it is the growing season. A good guideline to follow is tree collecting should be done between the Acorns and the Daffodils when their are no leaves, or during the rainy season if you're in the tropics.

Trees need to be a little bit higher than the vegetation they are to be planted in. These trees are going to be planted in a clump of Rose Bay willow Herb, which is why they are so big, But normally 1/2 meters is enough to penetrate through grass or bramble.